Perhaps it is hard to imagine a wine coming from a volcanic region, thriving on ash-rich soil. The reason I say that is I’m not familiar with a lot of volcanic activity in Napa, the Medoc or Niagara. Needless to say, the subject is fascinating.
Besides, would you risk establishing a vineyard in the path of an active volacano, knowing that vines need to mature, then the bottles have to spend time in barrels and bottles, making the process from planting to selling years long? Your efforts could end up under a pile of lava or ash if scientists get their data wrong.
‘Oh, sure, you can plant now. This volcano isn’t due to erupt for at least a century.’ Boom!
Then again, volcanic ash provides the perfect base for certain grapes like the Aglianico. This is an ancient variety, among those thought to have been rescued from extinction by Antonio Mastroberardino. Others include Piedrosso and Sciascinosa (aka Olivella). Charles Scicolone wrote on i-Italy about the wine master’s fascination with Mount Vesuvius and ancient cultivating techniques. Wineries in the area of Campania in southern Italy have clearly benefited from volcanic soil.
On its own, Aglianico produces moderately priced wine (high for my budget, nothing compared to some varieties coming straight out of Pompeii where Mastroberardino started growing six foot vines a few years ago). Some cheaper bottles are around, but if you want to get the fullness of the grape’s complex flavors on your wine rack, consider paying the price. Notes include chocolate, coffee and leather. Modern techniques are helping to bring ready-to-drink wines to the table, though in certain cases, cellaring 5-10 years is considered ideal.
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